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Directory:Bedini SG:Replications:Monsieur Bonheur-BediniBasedGenerator

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'Monsieur Bonheur 's Generator, Based on Bedini's TechnologyDirectory:Bedini SG'

Brief Description : Prior to this variation, Monsieur Bonheur had replicated a Directory:Bedini SG:Replications:Monsieur Bonheur-SG version and the famous Directory:Bedini SG:Replications:Monsieur Bonheur . This replica, completed in July, 2005, is made using a roller-blade wheel with four magnets, and it spins at several thousand RPM (usualy around 5500RPM).


Two coils where experimentaly made using "50ft Stereo Speaker wires", along with two magnetic wires for signal and energizing. The Stereo Speaker wires are only connected to diode bridges. This bridge leading to the charging battery. The other two coils are 100ft of 12 strands-litz gauge 20 magnetic wire. 2 wires used for threshold and energizing. the remaining wires are wired to a big diode bridge, also connected to charging side. All coils are independents, but connected in parallel to same powering batt and charging batts.

Observations and discussion

Aug. 1st, 2005 Introduction

Since I'm not well equiped right now in term of batteries, I have to trickle-charge constantly to provide the power needed. Since I got so much batteries in need of recycling, I did a lot of charges and discharges which lead me to the following observations:

1- I get a higher voltage spike when I fill the plastic core completly, obvious! I now get well over 450Volts discharges this time! Interesting result for a 1 to 1 transformer, see what I mean? When putting a charge into the coil, at the right moment, you get the famous Bedini "charge compressor" in action. Since the coils are now more massive than never before in my experiments, I can see these massive discharges are doing a lot more work putting batteries into charging state!

2- Bedini was mentionning, be prepared to see a lot of voltage fluctuations in the conditionning process. I saw DC voltage going well over 20V on the batteries for some time... Then this level was going down and up and down... I felt the batteries's internal resistors were trying to resist the frequent and extreme voltage spikes. Indeed, the more the internal resistor was "hammered" by those spikes, the more reliable the voltage was. Also, the batteries were now able to develop a lot more current, for more time than they used to deliver. It takes a lot of charges and discharges to get those old batteries to work very well. But I confirm you this: The more you charge batteries with the Bedini technology, the more performant the become. They also get to charge faster and faster, since their internal systems are maintained and improved by this process. While experimenting on Leedskalnin's magnetic currents, I discovered that conventional chargers are not producing balanced Norths and South poles magnets... These Bedini generators seem to reestablish the equilibrium between charges restoring the balance of the batteries.

3- About the building of the coils: After making a lot of various experiments on the system, My next step woul be to wind a small detection coil (maybe gauge 28)around the core for about 250 turns, then winding the 12stands litz. The reason is simple, a lot of charges are going to the transistor but not a lot of voltage. The resistors are eating a lot of current and they get hot. Smaller gauge of wire, along with more windings, should lower the current and add more volts to the threshold ramp. So a smaller resistor with a higher value can be used.

more to come! ... pictures and scope wave form discussion coming soon.


Since I started recharging those big batteries that were coming from a recycling center, I seen a lot of different voltages. Sometimes, I wake up and check the status of the battery bank and it says 12.80V... Later the same day, it shows 12.34V. To me, this is completly logical. When the batteries are reconditionning, they rebuild their interior so they can place more charges. They also get rid of the unbalanced charges gradualy. When a certain level of tension is reached, the tension level goes down, a bit like melting ice cubes in water creates more space the ice taking more volume.

I'm still recharging those batteries, all in parallel. When they'll reach about 14.5V on the charger, I'll start the batteryswapper device on them and I'll probably see more conditionning for a while, months. That's the way of the guy that doesn't have money to buy brand new batteries. Patience or big money... I have to go for patience right now.

This conditionning is progressing, slowly but surely. With the other experiences of conditionning I had, I'm sure the batteries will endup with more capacity and will recharge faster after every charge/discharge. I seen it before on two 17Ah lead-acid batteries before, the two 17Ah batteries were unable to light a 7W light bulb in the beginning. Now, they light this bulb steadily for more than 5 hours. They also recharge faster, deploying every times more and more energy. On those big, almost dead batteries, same thing is happening.

Nov. 6th, 2005 Running the battery swapper

Running the battery swapper, I get to fully discharge 4 separate battery banks. I matched batteries to get at least 35Ahrs per bank while matching the worst batteries from the recycler with relatively good ones trying to equilibrate the banks. Also, this way, the recycled batteries get to discharge without being stressed out too much. The good battery of the same bank providing the biggest part of the power needed. I noticed a slight improvement in the charging time, but this process is slow and the system is not autonomous just yet.

Nov. 13th, 2005 Installing Light Bulbs in serie with Gate's resistors

This night, I decided to change the Gate's potentiometer arrangement. I added a 12V, 11Watts light bulb to both of the big coils. These bulbs are really useful. They releave a lot of the heat and power strain from the potentiometers, while showing the actual current draw into the transistor's Gate. So, you can see by the behaviour of the lamp what's happening. More than this, if you set the potentiometer correctly these bulbs will dynamicaly adjust the Gate's resistor because they vary their internal resistance according to the current that passes through them. They will put more light and heat and increase resistivity if the signal get too intense, and they will lower their lighting and heat so accomodate more current to flow if the generator begin slowing down. Nice trick to use, Thanks John Bedini!

Nov. 21th, 2005 Wound a new coil, litz 15 strands, 23AWG

I replaced one of the rough coils I made with stereo speaker cable with a litz 15 strands, 23AWG about 45 feet long. It didn't completly fill the plastic spool tough...(I'll be doing a 30 strands next! )I did trifilar grouping out of the strands, so have 5 strands total 1 for the switching side, one sending the pulse and the three remaining connected to a diode bridge .I ran the machine, the coil works perfectly according to plans. I new to buy some pots that will match the range I need to tune the machine correctly. That range, I found out by experimentation.

Advices, choosing the right potentiometer(s) :

Always put a base resistor to your Base-coil-Emitter circuit. Small... 10-30ohms for start.

Study the behaviour of your machine:

Connecting an osciloscope to the Emitter and Collector of the transistor gives the most interesting view.

Depending on your wire gauge, amount of turns and all:

The power passing through the resistor can be high. We need good impulses to open the gate steadily. Choose power variable resistors... 5Watts, 10Watts. Trying avoiding small adjustment potentiometers, it's bad when the melt and burn...

If your potentiometers are overheating:

If you see your high wattage potentiometers getting really hot, try to estimate the watts going through the pot and resistor. It might be a great idea to put a light bulb there, to get an appreciation of the switching by light variations. Heat goes to lightbulb and less in the potentiometer that way.

Nov. 28th, 2005 Wound yet another coil, litz 30 strands, 23AWG

This one fills almost completly the spool... I still have some room. I better buy a big spool of #20 or #18 soon. I'll be adding the core this week, I'll see the difference between a 15 and 30 strands coil... of same shape and size. Coming shortly...

It takes patience to go over 30 strands, scrape the 60 ends cleanly, find the corresponding ends and connect them... But I'm sure it's worth taking the time to see the results.

I'm also planning the ultimate machine now. With all the knowledge and experience of mechanics, electronics and charge discharge involved, I'm ready for the big challenge now... Soon.

Dec. 7th, 2005 New 30 strands coil installed

I did install that fantastic 30 strands coil on the machine. I also did give the other coils a finishing touch. I installed a on/off switch, two potentiometer and one bulb on each coil. The on/off switch, I use to disable a coil and see the overall impact on the system. I can also use those switches to evaluate only one coil at a time, useful. As for the potentiometers, got one small 20ohms pot for fine tuning, another 200ohm pot for rough adjustment. The bulb I did put in série with the potentiometers are 12Volt, 4W. I use these bulbs to regulate the "sweet spot". The filaments are just redish and that's enough. If the machine slows down, the filaments are getting colder and allow more energy to pass through. If the machine accelerates, the filament will increase it's resistance and keep the speed almost constant. This keeps the system into a dynamic adjustment loop.

As for the new coil, it's behaving better than the coil with stereo speaker wire that used to be there. it's got an impressive effect on the system's performance increasing the output energy and decreasing the input current's needs. The rotor is rotating at about 6450rpm, getting the battery bank ready to another batteryswapping test.

I'm also building a "buffer circuit". This circuit is only a big capacitor along with a power optoisolator. I get a microcontroler to pulse the opto on/off to the frequency I want. When the opto is switched on, the capacitor dumps his radiant energy into the battery bank pulsing less frequently but heavier discharges. We'll see how it goes.

New module installed! Now with buffered output!

December 13 th, 2005.

I installed a new module to the ENERGIZER. I'm now using the term Energizer, yes. Because it's not in the family of the devices that provides energy directly to appartuses. It's an energiser because it's reenergizing batteries, and only batteries.

I followed John Bedini's ideas and built an accumulating module. This module is composed of a big capacitor , an opto-SCR and a timing circuit. I added a big bypass switch so I can remove the module whenever I need to modify it. What the module does:

STEP 1 - It accumulates the radiant energy spikes into the big capacitor for a while , withdrawing the charging batteries from the equation. This anihilates the load seen by the Energizer. When the Energiser is only charging the capacitor, it accelerates. The input current also drops significatively.

SETP 2 - After a little while accumulating, the opto-SCR is activated for a minimum time ( 10us ) and the capacitor discharges it's load into the charging batteries. This step provides a stronger radiant discharge in the batteries.

Now, if you read carefully, you understood where it makes a big difference. The load seen by the powering battery disappears for most of the time, giving less strain to the powering battery!

I'll be drawing a schematic of this module very soon.

About Input / Output measurements

February 9 th, 2006.

How to measure Input / Output

Measuring the output with classical means will only give your the efficiency of your Energizer. With this, you'll be able to tune th Energizer to get as close from the 1 to 1 as possible. The best method I could find to get the right Input/Output measurements is to hook up a 1ohm resistor across a capacitor, measure the AMp with an Ampmeter and the voltage I get to the resistor...

Hint/ Advice/Something more about measuring

Remember, this is the way to get your Energizer to it's maximum efficiency. Plugging the measuring tools/resistor/capacitor will probably modifying the behaviour of the Energizer so it's useful to get a quick measure and put it back to operation without the mearing tools. I use big swiches to switch from "measuring mode" to operation and vice versa.

Why not putting a resistive load across output leads

Trying to measure the output with any resistive load across the output terminals is not recommended... Simply because you put a heavy load to your output and you "stall" the Energizer's process. It's a bit like trying to put an incandescent bulb in a neon socket... Wasn't meant to be like that.

Why is it so important to do it?

So, measure your Input/Output according to the way it should be measured. Realise which setting makes your homemade Energizer as efficient as can be using this method. Don't expect to get more than 1 to 1 in your readings That is not where the OU effect is produced. REMEMBER: The Energizer produces the ideal output function to get the batteries to charge without using as much current as the classical ways, therefore more efficiently and without damaging the batteries.

=CONTACT ME!= I like to hear comments, questions are also welcome! write to dude_buggy , in the wonderful world of Hotmail!

See also

Directory:Bedini SG:Replications:Monsieur Bonheur-SG (the above is an advanced version of the Bedini concept)

Directory:Bedini SG:Replications:Monsieur Bonheur

Directory:Bedini SG:Replications:Monsieur Bonheur-BediniBasedGenerator (July2005)

Directory:Leedskalnin Magnetic Currents:Monsieur Bonheur

Directory:Bedini SG:Replications:Monsieur Bonheur FluxGate (April 2006)

Directory:Bedini SG:Replications

Directory:Bedini SG:Data

- Directory:Bedini SG

- Directory

- Main Page

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