Lasted edited by Andrew Munsey, updated on June 15, 2016 at 1:58 am.
'Kevin Roberts' Replication of John Bedini's Directory:Bedini SG'
8 June 2005
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Components: 680-ohm resistor, 1N4001 diode, 1N4007 diode, 2N3055 transistor, 65VAC 0.6mA neon bulb. Components connected using barrier strip (little screws), no solder.
Batteries: two 9V alkaline (Fuji Novel 7600 6LF22).
Coil length: 3-1/2 inches (83mm).
Coil ~460 turns of 22 and 18 gauge magnet wire [= 198 feet (60m)].
Gap between core and rotor ~3/16 inches (5mm).
Core diameter: 3/4 inches (19mm).
Core fill: 49 pieces of painted welding rod.
Welding rod (#7018 flux removed): diameter 5/64 inches (2.5mm), length 3-27/64 inches (87mm) [= 0.25 of whole welding rod].
Magnets: ceramic 1.85 x 0.85 x 0.37 inches (47 x 22 x 9 mm).
Rotor: “3-1/2? or “desktop? hard drive axel. 5 ceramic magnets, north pole facing outward, glued (cyanoacrylate) between two hard drive platters. Plus 8 extra hard drive platters function as spacers and as a flywheel. None of the hard drive parts are magnetic.
The coil is based on the original schematic that called for ~450 turns in the coil.
Connecting the Coil: The motor would not run unless the leads from the coil were connected to the components in a specific configuration. Novice oversight in the circuit diagram you should notice a little dot near the top of the inductor symbol that dot indicates the inner leads from the coil. However, once connected correctly either end of the coil can be pointed toward the rotor and the motor will run.
Observations: Alternating the batteries periodically this setup ran for just over 12 hours before the batteries died. B1, the run battery, would get warm after running for a while. Twice the batteries were not switched soon enough and the rotor stopped.
(see picture) The oversize barrier strip was cut down. From left to right the wires going out of frame are (1) from the resistor to the inner 18 gauge coil wire, (2) from the collector to the outer 22 gauge coil wire, (3) from the emitter to B1–, (4) from the emitter to the outer 18 gauge coil wire, and (5) from D2 to B2+.
Singing Coil: The core rods were removed, the paint taken off and the rods were allowed to rust as per JB’s instructions. While the core was removed the “dead? alkaline batteries were reconnected. When a magnet was brought near the end of the coil, a high pitched sound was produced from the coil apparently. Sounds like the high pitched squeal a camera flash makes. The same sound was produced when a screw driver was pushed through the empty core. The sound disappeared when these things were taken away. Later, the motorcycle batteries were attached and the sound could be heard all the time. The sound gets louder when a magnet is brought near the end of the coil. This time when a screw driver was moved into the hollow core the pitch went way down and then back up when the screw driver was removed. When the screw driver was pushed all the way inside the sound disappeared and did not return when the screw driver was removed. The magnet no longer cause the coil to make a sound. I thought something must have disconnected or burned out, but all the connects appeared solid. However, with the core rods replaced everything ran normally.
(see picture) This is the same setup but now using two motorcycle batteries. Seems to run faster than the alkaline batteries ever did. This rotor has a slight wobble so it has been screwed (brass screws) to a large block of wood to keep it from walking away. This setup has only been run for a few hours. At this time I’m just trying not to ruin the batteries by running them too low. These batteries started out brand new and fully charged.
9 June 2005
Rotor/Core Gap: Changing the spacing between the rotor magnets and the coil core does not change the rotor speed significantly out to ~1/2 inches (25mm). A smaller gap requires a lower rpm to get started and significantly increases acceleration to maximum rpm. With the 12V batteries attached and the gap set to ~1/8 inch (3mm) the rotor starts turning with only the slightest kick start.
Tranistor Temperature: The transistor has never gotten hot or even warm.