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Richard's Replication of John Bedini's Simplified 'School Girl' Motor and Battery Energizer
- Brief Description
- Replication accomplished Dec. 24, 2004. Minor modifcations from plans set forth here.
About the Replication
Dec. 24, 2004
I've been meaning to build a Bedini monopole for about a year, I've had most of the bits ordered and lying around for some months.
I orginally found the work of JB through the http://www.otherpower.com board and submissions by such as 'Charged' and 'Roamer'.
My rotor is composed of 3 off 18mm thick 6" diameter MDF discs glued together (as per Roamer's original suggestions) mounted on an 8mm axle supported in 608ZZ skateboard bearings. I have 3 off Grade 5 ceramic magnets mounted 120 degress apart on the circumference.
I was originally going for the trifilar coil version with the BD243C/ 555 and 2 x MJ15024 output circuit as was posted at http://www.icehouse.net prior to JB taking thse pages down. Emmett Butler suggested I go with this SG version. This was a pain as the 500gm of 24SWg enamelled copper wire I had bought had already been split in to three.
Ignoring the advice within these pages I did splice both windings and wound them on the spool the wire had come on originally which had an ID of slightly over 1/2" and was some 2.4" long. I got a total of 925 bifilar turns.
I then wedged the core with welding rod and insulating taped the lot to keep it together.
As will be seen from the photo, I've cobbled some plywood together to make the support frame and mounted the coil with brass studding and nuts to allow adjustment.
The components used are as per this site except D1 is an 1N4007 and D2 is a BY228 (one of JL Naudin's favourite devices). I was gong to follow Emmetts circuit in which he uses a base resistor of 680ohms however I went with the 47ohm fixed and 10k pot as per this site (and I'm glad I did).
Having wired it all up I was getting strong attraction at the coil, not the desired result so I reversed the polarity of the windings but was unable to get any rotation.
Much head scratching, some careful analysis and I found D1 was goosed. I also found my winding resistances to be circa 8ohms (using a relatively cheap DVM)
This was replaced and still no joy. I was getting an oscillatory whistle at very low resistance on R1 but no rotation.
In the end in desperation I cranked the pot right up, gave the wheel a spin and hey presto it was doing its thing. I found I could turn the pot back a wee bit, but I think I'm in the 8-9k range to get the thing working. This was on two very good condition scooter/ moped batteries, one at 1.2Ahr and the other 7.2Ahr, hardly ideal candidates.
This was last night. Tonight I've upgraded the wiring to the batteries and taken the device outside to the shed and stuck it on two car batteries. Again I'm in much the same base resistance range. Both batteries are known to be 'poor' and I can see that the trickle charger will be needed very shortly.
Any comments/ advice gratefully received to email@example.com .
OK so things have moved on from this now. I haven't yet posted a picture of my MkII Energizer. It is fitted with a 900 turn bifilar and 900 turn tri-filar coil and has been running now almost non-stop for 9 1/2 weeks.
The bifilar is made from 0.56 and 0.4mm wire on a Farnell 500gm spool stuffed with 2.5mm copper coated mild steel welding rods. The trailing leads are all less then 3" and terminated in soldered ring terminals and fastened to the next component in the chain by a 4mm brass bolt. All connections are as short as possible. I have a 12V/ 100ma lamp in the base resistor circuit and my 1N4007 is actually 10 in parallel. I have four batteries in parallel on the output, all batteries cables are 10AWG soldered to spade terminals (I think one of the weak points in this system is the spade terminals). My trifilar is also made from 0.56 and 0.4mm wire and uses the BD243C/ 1N914 diode set-up and again I'm using a 12V/ 100ma lamp in the base resistor circuit (although it doesn't actually light up). Again all wiring is short, all connections soldered and the ouput is through the third winding out via a FWBR direct to the four parallel output batteries.
I will post a picture shortly.
The one big setback I've experienced was a time when all eight output batteries got loaded down to 11.6V, they seem to have taken some time to recover from this.
I'm not yet focusing on rotating batteries and not using an external power source. I have one charger on the go all the time. The drive batteries are also rotated in to the output side.
I have been rotating my 3 original batteries on and off now for 9 1/2 weeks with another 7 having been rotated for 8 weeks. I'm still using a battery charger to keep the charging batteries above 12V. I've kept one battery back as control.
There was one instance where 8 of the batteries were accidentally taken down to 11.6V which has set back the project more than slightly. It has taken some time to recover from this setback.
Last week I charged the control battery and then left it for 20 minutes. I measured its voltage and then put it on a LM317T based 250mA load circuit and measured the length of time it took to 'lose' 1V. It took 11hrs.
The following day I took a battery which had been on the end of both of both a bifilar and trifilar set-up and carried out the same test. It took 13hrs.
This appears to represent an improved performance of 18% in the amount of work this conditioned battery was capable of.
I haven't yet had the chance to test any more conditioned batteries as I'm back at work offshore. I'm hopeful of even better results as the batteries continue to recover from the deep discharge.