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Directory:Bedini SG:Replications:Monsieur Bonheur

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Monsieur Bonheur 's Replication of John Bedini's "School Girl Radiant Energy Circuit and Motor"

Monsieur Bonheur 's replication employs four coils, instead of just one. Still working out the bugs.


Monsieur Bonheur Replication



Oct. 20, 2004

I built a Motor Generator with 4 coils, two rotating discs with magnets and a timing wheel(with notches) with an opto-isolator.

I started publishing photos (below) and texts regarding the device I built.

The project is more advanced than what you can see right now. I'll add more stuff soon. I have a few videos of it I'll also add shortly. Data is not available yet, I didn't take notes, I just played around with it.

I know that some coils arrangements are making the battery charge, but it's a little to soon to jump to conclusions.

All your comments are importants and will be taken into account.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

M. Bonheur

John Bedini's answer

First of all let me say good work. The school girl motor is only using one set of poles,all north magnets. In 1984 we made several of the type designs you are now working with. I will post the picture to Yahoo SG. We have found out over the years that, Yes some of the coils will produce energy to recharge the battery. This type of arrangement is kin to the G-Field Generator, another words a flux gate generator, which under load will reduce the input current on the primary battery side. If the secondary side is arranged right the motor will seem to increase in RMP and will charge secondary batteries. I will post the picture for you. This is great work that you learn from, but it's not a school girl motor in any way. This itam is way advanced work on flux gates. "GREAT WORK"

John Bedini


Oct. 18, 2004

Hey M.Bedini,

I built a Motor-Generator like on your plans. Or so I think.

I have a rotor with two discs rotating. There is almost no friction but I can't cancel the effect of the magnets slowing down the rotation. Each of the 4 coils generates about 6-7Vac. I have about 800 turns on each. My cores are made from steel soldering wire.

I know that I need to put all the coils in series. I tried different timing schemes but I never succeed getting it to operate correctly. If it runs fine, there shouldn't be any drag created by the magnet-coils cores. right?

I tried various switching means, like relays and opto-isolators. My timing pulse is given by an opto-isolator hooked to a small disk with 4 holes in it. I tested that timing disc, it operates reliably.

When the machine has no load on it, I pull the plugs when it rotates and it turns freely for over 18 seconds.

I'm suspecting something wrong that has to do with the coils arrangement.

Please, give me a hint about connecting those coils together. I think that is where my problem is.

I have many pictures of this Motor-Generator, but I don't want to induce people in error posting something that is not 100% right.

Thanks a lot.

Oct. 22, 2004

Small experiment,I published yet another photos, the flywheel with magnets polarity.The objective of the videos was to experiment/demonstrate two different magnetic effects. Connecting all coils in series together, forming a closed loop, in specific sequence and order to maximise or neutralize the magnetic drag effet. When minimal drag configuration ([|Minimal_Drag Effect]) It felt like there was no interaction between magnets and cores. Videos are also giving a feel of the machine.

More experimentations and results shortly. The main idea behind creating this prototype was to be able to play around with ANY factor to clearly study the phenomenon. To be able to test any kind of variance, gap, coils type or configurations and timings. I can add or remove magnets, modify the gap between coils and discs screwing on the aluminium rotor and blocking with nuts. There are also some adapters to connect various motor shafts to the rotor. I already tested various motors on the machine, I think it doesn't matter that much which motor you choose. If you have the coils connected the right way, any 12Vdc motor will be fine. Then, the idea is to get the ideal speed that results in a right frequency response for the "magic to happen". This ideal timing will be set by the ideal pulse lenght that will be sent by the optical sensor and timing wheel; also ajustable on the shaft with a nut.

I really want to experiment and learn from this machine. This is fun , build one you guys!


Oct. 24, 2004

Today, I connected all the coils in series to get around 28Vac , 43Hz. After the diode bridge, the capacitor was showing about 32Vdc when charged to maximum. I had four small Lead-Acid Batteries all fully recharged to spend on testing. I ran the machine for many hours, everytime the battery was running low, I was putting it on the charging side and hooking a fully charged one to replace it.

I begin to understand what Bedini is saying: "..under load will reduce the input current on the primary battery side".

While I was sure the charging side was operating correctly, I went on monitoring the motor side. It was a bit hard to find the right timing for the rotor to spin at constant rate. But once I got it to run at the most ideal setting, the voltage on the multimeter connected to the running battery increased; showing the load was lower than it was when the circuit wasn't tuned. So, here is what I understand on what Bedini says about the load:

Your DC Motor is made to run at a certain speed, your coils are magneticaly oscillating at a certain speed/frequency. If you find the right speed to make your motor spin (around the ideal speed the motor is made for) and you match the right magnetic resonance of the coils, you'll spend less energy running the motor because it will be running asking dramaticaly less current because of the harmony of the circuit.

From what I can see now, I think I would need a motor that rotates faster, I would try to reach the 60Hz, a better frequency for the coils cores. From the calculations I made, my motor is running at about 1720rpm, and I would need it to run around 2400rpm. So, I need another motor on that machine. These tests were made using relays to do the switching, but they were at the limit of their switching speed. I'll have to install transistors or other solid state to get rid of the annoying noise and be able to switch faster amd more efficiently.

By the end of the week, I'll be recharging my 4 small batteries using a car battery plugged on a 110Vac charger to maintain it fully charged. I'm already gathering the pieces for the switching. I tried many means to do the switching. BEST MEAN I found was a PIC microcontroller. With this programmable chip, you can monitor tensions, program pulses with accuracy and even connect the circuit to your PC and modify values or see debug outputs in live mode.

I'll think of a way to program the PIC to find the right frequency and pulse lenght all by itself. An intelligent, auto-tuning chip. I could also program it to check batteries and dynamically charge the ones low on charge using the fully charged ones.

That's it for today, I'm amazed how much I can learn from that machine everytime I play with it. This is definetly like swimming, you need to build one ; Jump and Get wet!

Nov. 26, 2004

Today, I had all the necesary parts to build my switcher circuit. I ordered a PIC developper board that already had some basic modules on and added three Opto-isolator circuits. Optos are the right parts to use, they are insulated operators; they use light to trigger their switching processes. I got one opto for the timing detection and two big Optos to control the pulses of the Charge side and the Motor side. I tested the board and it works perfectly. I finally got a super switcher that I can control via my computer. This switcher can switch quite fast, compared to the previous switcher I had with mechanical relays. See photos for the switcher. I'll try providing a plan shortly.

I feel I got the right tool to continue experimenting with the motor-generator. I bought various motors to experiment with.

Dec. 26, 2004

I added the details of my PIC Microcontroller circuit. It is purely opto-isolators to keep the control out of the phenomenon. The program in the microcontroller can be changed in a flash. (See Photo Section for the detailed circuit plan)

Right now, the program is simply waiting for the timing wheel to send a pulse. Once it receives this pulse it puts ||| the MOTOR ON and the CHARGING OFF ||| for a specific amount of time entered using the computer. After that delay, the microcontroller switches ||| the CHARGING ON and the MOTOR OFF ||| until the next pulse.

I also have a program that measures the delay between two timing wheel pulses and calculates a %Value (%Value Provided by the computer input) of the delay where the MOTOR will be ON and CHARGING will be OFF. So, when the system starts, 100% of the time, the motor is on. Then, after the motor gets it's speed, the system reduce its duty cycle to get the equilibrium around about 50% ON 50%OFF.

I also rewound the four coils, the bifilar way. After testing various configurations, I've been unable to get those "super HighVoltage spikes" from my coils. The highest voltage I can get from those coils is about 20Vdc on my capacitor (with no recharging battery). I feel I just have a normal alternator with bifilar coils. There must be something wrong with the way I connect the coils (See image in Photo Section for connection details). I need advices from John Bedini on that, there might be a more efficient way to connect them but I can't figure it out.

Dec. 27, 2004

Today, I cut two steel disks and stuck them on the outer side of the wheels holding the magnets. I thought it would cancel the outer magnetic fields and might change the way the device is operating. From preliminary tests, The plates are really neutralising the outer fields. While installing the wheels, I noticed the inner field interacting with the coils was obviously stronger. I now get about 26Vdc on my capacitor bank (4capacitors, 100V , 1500uFeach)

I ran tests and caught some oscilloscope shots. All the screen shots you see have 5V/division. There is a strange spike noticeable when the system is draining capacitor into a battery.

The motor is still getting really hot after a while it's running. This affect it's performance and I must stop the device after an hour or so. However, I think that closing the magnetic field helped removing resistance from the motor while increasing efficiency.

John , I'd like to have your opinion regarding today's observations. Pertinent Posts to Bedini SG

Apr. 28th, 2006

It's back on the workbench! Yes! I rebuilt the coils 6 filars, did some modifications and I'm now taking notes on all tests I'm doing with it.

I need to put some more images so I think it would be better to get a new page referencing this one... That's what I'm doing here:



Image:Bedini-MotorGenerator(birdeyeview).jpg Image:Birdeyeview-no_timing_wheel.jpg Image:Wheel-and_bolt_on_shaft.jpg Image:Replicationflywheels_&_magnets.jpg Image:Coil_arrangement.jpg Image:Coil(with_core_made_of_soldering_wire).jpg Image:Opto-isolator_for_wheel.jpg Image:Timing_wheel.jpg Image:Bedini_flywheel&magnetspoles_.jpg

Switching Circuit

image:MB_switcher.jpg image:MB_opto-switch.jpg Switching Circuit Plan

Bifilar Arrangement

Best Bifilar Arrangement for Max Voltage

Scope Shots using Bifilar

Output with no loadOutput while charging 12V batteryInteresting voltage fluctuationZooming on the Interesting Spike


Oct. 21, 2004

Two small Videos I recently made to show two different behaviours. No timing Circuits, just playing around; spinning the rotor and connecting coils in series (close looped).

[|Minimal_Drag Effect] ,FILE:MB_BediniRep1.mpg

[[ |Maximal_Drag Effect]] ,FILE:MB_BediniRep2.mpg


Primary information regarding the build:

===FLYWHEELS=== Aluminium disk, 4 holes to accept magnets.diameter = 4 inches thickeness = 3/8 inch weight = 276g


Common ceramic magnets diameter: 1 inch thickness: 1/4 inch stack of three magnets per pole(may change)


Aluminium disk with plastic disk with 4 notches Diameter = 2 inches weight= 44g


Aluminium rod lenght = 7 inches weight= 40g


Core Data

  1. Plastic spools from RadioShack's magnetic wire set.
  2. lenght = 1 3/4 inches
  3. cores diameter = 3/4 inch

Simple Coils

  1. turns (approximate)= 950 turns
  2. Coils resistance(average) = 9.5ohms
  3. Single wire wound. (Will try other types soon.)
  4. Impedance = 0,05H
  5. Cores material = Concatenated soldering wire pieces

Bifilar Coils

  1. turns (approximate)= 450 turns(co-wound)
  2. Coils resistance(average) = 4.7ohms
  3. Bifilar wire wound. (See Photo Section for winding detail)
  4. Impedance = 0,01H
  5. Cores material = Concatenated soldering wire pieces

MAIN FRAME (Support)

100% aluminium plates Dry bearings (no oil,less friction)

=CONTACT ME!= I like to hear comments, questions are also welcome! write to dude_buggy , in the wonderful world of Hotmail!

See also

- Return to School Girl Radiant Energy Circuit and Motor
- Other Directory Listings
- Return to PESWiki main page

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