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Directory:Bedini SG:Replications:Jim

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Jim's Replication of John Bedini's "School Girl Radiant Energy Circuit and Motor"

This page is a collection of my trials & tribulations building and experimenting with the Bedini Simplified Schoolgirl (SG) Motor/Energizer.


Contents

Chronology

12/11/2004: Coil Energization Timing As follow up to John Bedini's comments, a quick experiment to see when the drive coil is triggered during wheel rotation.

12/01/2004: Concept Proven? No. Voltage gain on charge battery exceeds voltage loss on supply battery.

11/23/2004: View Radiant Spike Using a coil as suggested by John Bedini to view the radiant spike going into the charging battery.

11/22/2004: Supercharging 2nd battery, recording charge data points a bit more accurately.

11/15/2004: First Supercharge First (unscientific) attempt at supercharging my batteries, found that the charged battery alters optimum base resistor value

11/12/2004: Determine best resistor value Test results, best value for transistor base resistor.

11/06/2004: Rotation achieved Achieved wheel rotation for the SG motor.

11/05/2004: Comment by John Bedini on charging under solid state resonance

11/04/2004: Solid State resonance achived Achieved solid state (no moving parts) resonance from the circuit prior to obtaining rest of components to build rotating portion of device. Reports various outputs when modulating the resistance.

Photos

2nd build of my Bedini SG replication


Here are a few snapshots of my current "cleaned up" SG replication, with shorter leads, hardwired components and no alligator clips

Image:JS_new_wheel1.jpg

Image:JS_new_wheel2.jpg

Image:JS_new_wheel3.jpg


1st build of my Bedini SG replication


Here are a few snapshots of my original breadboard SG replication

Image:JS_wheel1_20041111.jpg

Image:JS_wheel2_20041111.jpg

Image:JS_circuitboard2_20041111.jpg

Parts Sourcing Tips

Magnet wire - http://www.surplussales.com. You can buy the wire by the foot, so you can get exactly how much you need without having to buy an $80 8 lb. spool. I bought 350 ft. each of 20 AWG and 22 AWG wire, part #(WMG)GP200-20 & (WMG)GP200-22, at $0.07/ft ($49.00 for all 700 ft.). Bonus, my 20 AWG came on a spool that would be perfect for your coil, so you might not have to buy the speaker wire to get the spool at Radio Shack.

Wheel rim - I used a front wheel rim from one of those jogging baby strollers. The wheel is made of heavy duty plasic, so it is both light and non-magnetic. It also spins very smooth. you can order the rim online at http://www.prolithic.com/hpages/out_acc/bobstroller_parts.html. Get the "BOB Stroller Wheel Poly Front". It is a little expensive ($46) but works great.

Coil core - I couldn't find any welding rods less than 3/16" dia., so i improvised & it turned out to be a LOT easier to assemble: I bought a 3' 5/8" dia. steel rod, and a 3' 3/4" dia. steel tube from Home Depot (same section where they sell the welding rods). I cut the rod & tube to the spool length (3"), pounded the 5/8" rod into the 3/4" steel tube & glued it into the 3/4" hole of the spool.

Magnets - I found a cheap source for the ceramic magnets from a place called Pico Turbine http://www.picoturbine.com/FAX-orderform.htm. A pack of 20 appropriately sized magnets are $18.95. a PACK OF 10 COSTS $9.95. I used 10 magnets on the stroller wheel rim above.

Electronic parts - For your convenience, here are part numbers for applicable parts from www.mouser.com:

606A1A - Chicago Miniature neon lamp

512-1N4001 - 1N4001 diode

512-1N4007 - 1N4007 diode

511-2N3055 - 2N3055 transistor TO-3 style case

532-500403B00 - TO-3 style heat sink for transistor

658-LCR064R2P - 6V Panasonic Lead Acid battery *** There is some discussion as to whether these are the correct type of battery to use, the part number here is for reference purposes only, and I have not yet tested or verified that these batteries work to store radiant energy.

Assembly Tips

Coil - I wound my coil in about 45 minutes (about 825 turns) and did not take great care to keep the two magnet wires *exactly* adjacent. I'd say that I kept the wires within 0.25" most of the time by just winding both wires by hand around the spool much like you'd wind up fishing line or kite string. The only thing I did try to do was to make the coil somewhat uniform from edge to edge so that there wasn't a big lump of copper in the middle.

Coil core - I used a 5/8" steel rod cut to size, then pounded into a 3/4" steel tube. This fit inside the 3/4" hole of the spool perfectly. I glued it in place with super glue. It was a lot easier than gluing many small diameter welding rods into place. I got the rod & tube at Home Depot in the same area where they sell the 3' steel welding rods and other steel items.

Wheel assembly - I superglued 10 magnets along the rim of the wheel, then wrapped a few layers of electric tape around the outside in case any of the magnets came unglued. At 200 rpm, that would be a disaster!

Transistor resistor - I originally wrote that I used a 10k ohm potentiometer in series with a 15 ohm resistor into the base. The pot did not work very well, and it turned out to be much better to swap in & out hard resistors to find the optimal value. If you do this, get a breadboard from Radio Shack, it will be much easier to swap in different resistors.

Scope Snapshot During Rotation

I took a scope shot just to show the waveform I was getting off the transistor output (across the collector & emitter).

Image:JS_scope_shot3_20041111.gif

See also


- Other Directory Listings
- Return to PESWiki main page

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