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# Directory:Bedini SG:Assembly Instructions

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Assembly Instructions for John Bedini's "School Girl Radiant Energy Circuit and Motor"

The materials list is complete, as is the schematic page. Combined with the following information, enough information is presented to replicate the design. Several people now have successfully replicated this device.

# Assembly

## Building the Frame

• Stand needs to have stability front-back, left-right.
• Rotor shouldn't have much resistance in its turning, and needs to be made of non-magnetic material.
• Plan for ~1/8 inch gap or less between the coil spool and the wheel with magnets glued and taped.
• Frame material should be non-magnetic, but some metal can be present.
• You may want to be able to increase or decrease the distance between the wheel and the spool, for experimental variable purposes.
• Direction of rotation does not have to be perpendicular to coil, but can be at 90 degrees as well.

## Fastening Magnets to Wheel

• Use a compass to determine "N" the north end of your magnets. The Earth's North Pole is magnetically south, so the "north" end of your compass will be attracted to the "south" end of your magnet. (ref) North faces out -- toward the coil.
• Label your magnets.
• All magnets face the same direction (north out).
• Magnet spacing does not need to be uniform unless you are going to attempt more than one coil.
• Determine an equal spacing for the magnets about the perimeter of the wheel and mark where they should go. This is not crucial to proper operation with one coil, but if you want to later add more coils (each with a separate circuit), symmetrical spacing will be important for symmetrical firing. If your wheel diameter is more or less than the ~24 inches called in these plans, adjust the number of magnets accordingly to be within the same range of spacing between magnets. You don't want to get your magnets much closer than 1.5 - 2 widths apart.
• If you wish to use more than one coil, each coil will need it's own complete circuit. All coils will need to fire in unison, so the magnet spacing will need to be uniform. Spacing between magnets should not be less than 1.5 - 2 magnet widths (whichever way you have them oriented).
• Use super glue and/or tape (or rubber bands, or ...) to affix the magnets.

## Winding the Coils

"Fill the spool." Approximately 450 900 turns.

• Wind the two wires on the coil together.
• It is very important that the two wires be next to each other the entire distance of the winding.
• Arrangement of the winding is not crucial. There is no pattern required. Symmetry is not required. Think fishing spool or kite spool, and you'll be fine. The window of tolerance is very wide here.
• You might use a drill to spin the spool. A chordless drill generally can turn slower, making it easier to count turns and to make sure the two wires are wound parallel the whole distance.
• John says the Exact number of turns on the coil is not crucial. Close is adequate. The window of tolerance is quite wide here. However, an exact count will be necessary for scientific rigor in documenting and reproducing.
• Keep track of input output pairs.
Tips
Counting visually is nerve-wracking and prone to error. Use an audible trigger in winding (e.g. a clacker on the spool). Alternatively, you might affix tape to both ends of spool, protruding outward around 1/2 inch. This will hit your hand as the spool turns, helping you to count turns.

## Filling Core

• Be sure to have the side that will be facing the magnets flush with the top of the spool so you can spin your magnets close to the spool without hitting a rod in the core.
• You might drill a 1" inch hole in your base around 1/2 inch deep for the other side of the core to protrude into, so you don't have to cut your rods short.
• Use glue on each rod to keep it from moving.
• Tap the last few rods in with some light object until you can't fit any more.

## Soldering the Circuit

• Try to keep all wires as short as possible.
• Don't overheat your diodes, resistor, or transistor when soldering.
• If you don't know how to solder, you could use wire nuts or even nuts/bolts to secure your connections.
• Make sure the circuit works before soldering the connections. Alligator clips can be be used to hold things in place until you solidify them.
• A little 9-V battery can be used to test the circuit. (Sterling's suggestion)
• John keeps the wires in his circuit as short as possible, going nearly to the quick when fastening his diodes to the transistor. The circuit will work with the wires being longer, but he says it works better when they are short.
• Also, be sure to use a heavy guage wire when connecting your batteries in parallel or series.

## Battery Tips

• In functional application, you should not draw power from the same battery that is presently being charged. You should have one bank of batteries under charge, and another for discharge, and then switch between them.
• See Battery Characteristics

### Connecting the Batteries

Once your system is confirmed running, you will want to beef up your connections to optimize the effect. Use a heavy guage wire and terminal connectors with crimping.

The above photo shows a set-up for rotation of batteries from the back end to the front, allowing for single battery charging (fresh from the front) while that battery comes up the same voltage as the bank of batteries, so they can then be connected in parallel.

Sterling uses the following set-up to adjust the resistance on the circuit. Note that the arrangement includes a switch to enable meter readings without extended disconnection of the circuit. Depending on how responsive the meter is, the circuit is interrupted for maybe one or two seconds using this method.

The 25 Ohm resistors give a fine-tuning capability. The bread board enables hard resistor plug-in to the appropriate range desired. The 5k Ohm potentiometer enables a wide berth of tuning.

Note, the 5k ohm potentiometer tends to be unstable in how it holds the resistance. If you wish to lock into a particular resistance, you should consider hard wiring the hard resistors into the bread board and bypassing the 5K potentiometer.

## One 1N4007 to Each Battery in Bank

Peter and John recommend that we set up our 1:4 battery arrangement as follows:

Purpose
to isolate each of the batteries in the back-end charging bank.
Method
in addition to the 1N4007 diode coming from the circuit to the batteries positive terminal, branch off to each battery with a 1N4007 diode so that they see the circuit independently.
Note
Harlan tried omitting the diode coming from the circuit, just using one going to each battery, and that did not work.
Ramifications
• the worst battery in the set does not become the weak link in the chain.
• no need to stop the circuit when rotating batteries
• no need to have the bank standing idle discharging while the battery from the input comes up to charge
• when the input battery discharges, the battery with the highest charge from the bank (not necessarily the one that has been there the longest), can be brought to the front end to run the circuit

There is another trick that John will disclose to us in due time.

### Wednesday, Dec. 22, 2004

• Tuning Tips - John gives several tips on how to optimize the Bedini SG, from how to tune in the base resistor, to wire gauge modifications. He would like to see us get to the point that we can run a 500 W inverter.
• Doesn't work for Sterling - I implemented most of John Bedini's recent suggestions. Does not reveal over unity, though the solid state test looked at first like it was going to. (Jan. 3, 2004)

# Cautions

• CAUTIONS - Dangers associated with this project are mainly with the batteries, but also with wheel rotation and soldering. Be sure you understand the risks and that you take necessary precautions.
• While this design can deliver some good shocks, they are not of a dangerous level.
• If the neon bulb is not in place, the transistor is likely to burn out if the device is run without a receptacle for the radiant energy (e.g. a receiving battery). The neon bulb absorbs the excess output energy and serves similar to a shock absorber or fuse (though nothing is "tripped" and has to be reset).

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