PesWiki.com

Menu

Directory:MWC:Assembly Instructions

Lasted edited by Andrew Munsey, updated on June 14, 2016 at 9:42 pm.

  • 12 errors has been found on this page. Administrator will correct this soon.
  • This page has been imported from the old peswiki website. This message will be removed once updated.

You are here: PES Network > Main Page > There was an error working with the wiki: Code[1] > Assembly Instructions

----

'Assembly Instructions for the Directory:MWC Project'

UNDER CONSTRUCTION : This site is in process of being adapted to the MWC from the Bedini SG

Assembly

Building the Frame

Stand needs to have stability front-back, left-right.

Rotor shouldn't have much resistance in its turning, and needs to be made of non-magnetic material.

Plan for ~1/8 inch gap or less between the coil spool and the wheel with magnets glued and taped.

Frame material should be non-magnetic, but some metal can be present.

You may want to be able to increase or decrease the distance between the wheel and the spool, for experimental variable purposes.

Direction of rotation does not have to be perpendicular to coil, but can be at 90 degrees as well.

Fastening Magnets to Wheel

Use a compass to determine "N" the north end of your magnets. The Earth's North Pole is magnetically south, so the "north" end of your compass will be attracted to the "south" end of your magnet. (ref) North faces out -- toward the coil.

Label your magnets.

All magnets face the same direction (north out).

Magnet spacing does not need to be uniform unless you are going to attempt more than one coil.

Determine an equal spacing for the magnets about the perimeter of the wheel and mark where they should go. This is not crucial to proper operation with one coil, but if you want to later add more coils (each with a separate circuit), symmetrical spacing will be important for symmetrical firing. If your wheel diameter is more or less than the ~24 inches called in these plans, adjust the number of magnets accordingly to be within the same range of spacing between magnets. You don't want to get your magnets much closer than 1.5 - 2 widths apart.

If you wish to use more than one coil, each coil will need it's own complete circuit. All coils will need to fire in unison, so the magnet spacing will need to be uniform. Spacing between magnets should not be less than 1.5 - 2 magnet widths (whichever way you have them oriented).

Use super glue and/or tape (or rubber bands, or ...) to affix the magnets.

Winding the Coils

"Fill the spool." Approximately ___ turns.

Wind the two wires on the coil together.

It is very important that the two wires be next to each other the entire distance of the winding.

Arrangement of the winding is not crucial. There is no pattern required. Symmetry is not required. Think fishing spool or kite spool, and you'll be fine. The window of tolerance is very wide here.

You might use a drill to spin the spool. A chordless drill generally can turn slower, making it easier to count turns and to make sure the two wires are wound parallel the whole distance.

Keep track of input output pairs.

Tips : Counting visually is nerve-wracking and prone to error. Use an audible trigger in winding (e.g. a clacker on the spool). Alternatively, you might affix tape to both ends of spool, protruding outward around 1/2 inch. This will hit your hand as the spool turns, helping you to count turns.

Filling Core

Be sure to have the side that will be facing the magnets flush with the top of the spool so you can spin your magnets close to the spool without hitting a rod in the core.

You might drill a 1" inch hole in your base around 1/2 inch deep for the other side of the core to protrude into, so you don't have to cut your rods short.

Use glue on each rod to keep it from moving.

Tap the last few rods in with some light object until you can't fit any more.

Soldering the Circuit

Try to keep all wires as short as possible.

Don't overheat your diodes, resistor, or transistor when soldering.

If you don't know how to solder, you could use wire nuts or even nuts/bolts to secure your connections.

Make sure the circuit works before soldering the connections. Alligator clips can be be used to hold things in place until you solidify them.

Also, be sure to use a heavy gauge wire when connecting your batteries in parallel or series.

Battery Tips

In functional application, you should not draw power from the same battery that is presently being charged. You should have one bank of batteries under charge, and another for discharge, and then switch between them.

See There was an error working with the wiki: Code[2]

Connecting the Batteries

Adjusting Resistance

Cautions

There was an error working with the wiki: Code[3] - Dangers associated with this project are mainly with the batteries, but also with wheel rotation and soldering. Be sure you understand the risks and that you take necessary precautions.

While this design can deliver some good shocks, they are not of a dangerous level.

If the neon bulb is not in place, the transistor is likely to burn out if the device is run without a receptacle for the radiant energy (e.g. a receiving battery). The neon bulb absorbs the excess output energy and serves similar to a shock absorber or fuse (though nothing is "tripped" and has to be reset).

See also

Directory:MWC:Schematic

There was an error working with the wiki: Code[4]

There was an error working with the wiki: Code[5]

Directory:MWC:Replications

There was an error working with the wiki: Code[6]

- Directory:MWC

- Directory

- Main Page

There was an error working with the wiki: Code[7]

There was an error working with the wiki: Code[8]

There was an error working with the wiki: Code[9]

There was an error working with the wiki: Code[10]

There was an error working with the wiki: Code[11]

There was an error working with the wiki: Code[12]

Comments