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Directory:FPPP:Assembly

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Directory:Flynn Parallel Path principle device

Image:Flynn Parallel Path proof sq 95x95.jpg

Directory:Flynn Parallel Path principle device

Directory:FPPP:Parts List

Directory:FPPP:Assembly

Directory:FPPP:Replications

Directory:FPPP:Experimental Set-up

Directory:FPPP:Solar Prize

Discussion List

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- Directory:FPPMT:FAQ

- Article:Joe Flynn's Parallel Path Magnetic Technology -- by Tim Harwood

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Assembly Instructions

Assembly Instructions for the Directory:Joseph Flynn's Parallel Path technology.

'Instructions for building a device to illustrate the principle of Flynn's Parallel Path technology.'

The device described here is by no means optimized!! I threw this together with what was available in the shop. Devices of this type, built by Mr. Flynn are far more efficient then this device. This device is great demo unit that will show the Parallel Path effect at a minimal investment. I will be working on a There was an error working with the wiki: Code[1] project on this site as well, soon. -- Michael Schuckel (Feb. 20, 2006)

Image:Completed device angle 300.jpg

finished device

.

Diagram

Image:Linear Actuator Test Apparatus 500.gif

Assembly Instructions

Start with a laminant
Image:Laminant one bar close-up 300.jpg
Image:Laminants 300.jpg

The laminates shown came from a transformer I had lying around the shop. Only using straight portion, not E portion. The laminates can also be purchased from several companies. One company I found is Industries International http://members.aol.com/indintl/prdidx.htm. Make sure that you specify that you are looking for “I? shaped laminates. The laminates may be any size that is close to the size shown here. The size I used here were .715? X 4.25? X .013? You will need 180 laminates to build this device. Four stacks of 45 each.

Place 45 laminants in vice
Image:Laminant bar stack in vice 300.jpg

I used ¾? strapping tape for this device. Cut a 12? long piece and start near the base. Make sure that you leave the holes in the laminates open. Also make sure to pull the tape fairly tight and keep it as straight as you can.

Place other end of laminants bar in vice
Image:Laminant vice tape other end 300.jpg

Flip the laminate stack over and mount in the vise again. Cut another 12? long piece and start near the base and apply just like the other side.

Tape middle of laminants bar
Image:Laminant bar tape middle 300.jpg

Find the center of the bar and mark it. To keep it simple I use 12" pieces of tape. This keeps things from getting out of hand. Apply 3-12" pieces of tape to each side of the centerline. Make sure to take you time and rap the tape as straight as you can.

Image:Laminant bar tape middle close-up 300.jpg

Then apply 3 more 12? pieces of tape to the other side of the centerline. Keep it butt up against the tape you just applied on the other side of the centerline.

Image:Laminant bar tape middle b 300.jpg

The raised tape area will form an insulated base for the wire winding.

Wind bar
Image:Wind bar begin 300.jpg

The winding will use 82’ of #26 gage magnet wire. Start the winding using a ¼? X 1? piece of strapping tape to hold the wire in place. Leave 12 inches of wire for the winding lead wire. Start the winding with light pressure until you have several turns in place then increase the pressure a bit. Keep the winding as snug and neat as you can.

Image:Wind bar first layer 300.jpg

Stop winding the first layer about 1/32" from the end of the winding area. This finishes first layer.

Glue both winding ends to bar
Image:Glue winding terminus 300.jpg

The glue keeps the wires from slipping as you apply the next layer.

Wind second layer
Image:Wind bar end b 300.jpg

Beginning of second layer. The winding will be 4 layers deep. Make sure to use thin super glue at both ends of the winding on each layer. Allow time for the super glue to cure. You can buy instant cure agent for super glue at hobby shops. The instant cure is a pump spray and makes the gluing process much faster. Super glue is important, it holds the previous layers together and allows the next layer to wind over without having the previous layer fall in. The glue also holds every thing together when you’re finished.

Image:Wind bar second layer close-up 300.jpg

Close-up same shot.

Winding finished
Image:Winding close-up 300.jpg

Winding finished, close-up. Notice multiple layers. The winding should be 4 layers deep if all is well. Note: if the winding is more or less then this amout by a bit, it's ok. Just make sure you use 80 of the 82 feet of wire in the winding. The winding is also coated entirely with super glue for strength.

Magnet Between Wound Bars
Image:Two bars joined 300.jpg

Magnets wrapped with tape to keep them together. Target Gauss of one combined magnet unit: 4,000 Gauss. These were magnets I had available in the shop. I suggest that you shop for ceramic VIII - ¾? cube magnets for you devices. The magnet size is not critical. Anything close to this size will work. What is critical is the strength of the magnets. The magnets must be no more then 4500 gauss and no less 1000 gauss. The closer you can get to 4500 gauss the stronger the device will be.

Magnet with North Up
Image:Magnets between laminant bars 300.jpg

Make sure that the magnets are placed in the device with the North poles up. If the magnets are polarized wrong the device will not work.

Tape End Laminant Stack
Image:End laminants vice grip 300.jpg

Photo Feb. 20. Note that this laminant stack is being placed at the end, in place of the darker colored stack from photos taken Feb. 18 below.

Laminant stack across ends
Image:New laminant stack across ends 300.jpg

Photo taken Feb. 18

The two stacks are held in place magnetically. Ideally, the length of the end laminants should be such that it does not go short of the width of the two wound laminant bars separated by magnets. (Note that in the Feb. 20 photos the end laminant stacks, lighter in color, below, are of the proper length.)

Once you have the magnets in place you can measure the length that the end bar stacks will need to be. You will need tin snips to cut the remaining 90 laminates to length. Cutting the laminates will warp them a bit, that’s ok just clamp then in a vice to straighten then out. Each end bar stack uses 45 laminates. Tape the end stack with 2 -12? pieces of strapping tape one on each end of the end bars.

Completed device
Image:Complete labeled 500.jpg

Feb. 20

Image:Complete labeled wiring close-up 500.jpg

Close-up, Feb. 20

Image:Completed device 300.jpg

Feb. 18

The finished device should look like the pictures. you are now ready to wire up the windings. The windings are wired up in parallel and MUST!!! be reverse polarity. The polarity is critical, if the windings are not reversed in polarity, the device will not work.

Image:Completed device angle 300.jpg

With the windings wired properly and the end bars in place. Connect the windings to 2 c size batteries (a variable 3,6,9,12v household PSUs rated at 2 amps can also be used). The device should show the parallel path effect at 3 volts. The parallel path effect is simply this: all of the magnetic force will focus to one side of the device and no force will be on the other side of the device. Simply said the bar will fall off one side and the other bar will be held in place with extreme force. When I say extreme I mean it will take all your mite to remove the second bar while power is applied. I strongly suggest that you mount the device to a board before attempting to pull the bar off to prevent damage to the device.

Operation

Important: If you use a variable Household PSU make sure that it is not a stepped voltage type unit. The supply must be linearly adjustable with an adjustment knob.

When you test the device start with the voltage set to 1 volt. Slowly adjust the voltage up to the 3-volt mark checking the end bars as you do so. 'When the Parallel Path effect takes place one of the end bars will have no force holding it to the device, and will drop off, while the other bar will lock into place.' You will notice that as you approach this point that the bar that is loose will have a decreasing force holding it in place until you reach the Parallel Path effect point. Either side of this point you will see force start to build on the loose side of the device.

One thing to note: The end bar on the active side of the devcice must be in place or the parallel path effect will not take place. In other words if a flux path is not provided on the active side of the device when you apply power. You will not see the flux focus to one side. So make sure you have both end bars in place when you test the device.

The polarity that is connected to the device will cause the parallel path effect to switch sides.

Results

Mike Schuckel's demonstration device in the photographs above creates such a strong force on the one end that it cannot be removed by hand -- and this with just the input of two C-size batteries.

This demonstrates the Flynn Parallel Path magnet effect.

1) The dropping off of the one end signals loss of magnetism there.

2) The strengthening of the magnetic pull on the other end demonstrates the focusing of the magnetic flux to that side.

'It is this redirecting of the flux, which could be thought of as multiplying the magnetic field, that enables the Flynn Parallel Path motors to give 3.5x more power out per the same amount of energy put in and the same size of motor as a traditional motor design.'

See also

PESWiki:FPPP:Parts List

- Directory:Flynn Parallel Path principle device

- Parallel Path forum

- Directory:Joseph Flynn's Parallel Path technology

- OS

- Main Page

There was an error working with the wiki: Code[1]

There was an error working with the wiki: Code[2]

There was an error working with the wiki: Code[2]

There was an error working with the wiki: Code[3]

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