Directory:Bedini SG:Self-runner:Details

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John Bedini's School Boy Motor and Battery Energizer Self-Runner Details

Complete Plans


The instruction information on these pages is for experimental use only. No commercial applications allowed except through license with Bedini Technologies Inc.

Below is the chronological order of my emails on the private list with removal of names and minor editing corrections

Posted to Bedini-Cole Window Energizer Forum, May 07, 2007

2-year-old small self-runner schematic

Increased Volts

New schematic found on first page

Bedini SSG Self runner. Rick Friedrich May 2007. Both coils ATDC. 1

Ok, I finally got some more time to get my self-runner going as

promised. It is nothing impressive in looks as I only had a few hours

to play around with. Actually I don't have any such time but just had

to get going on this. Please also excuse the mess.

I started off with winding 400 turns of #26.5 wire around it to make

for a window hybrid setup. Even with 3 stacked magnets it didn't put

out more than about 5.5v with my setup running with the pickup coil on

top (which puts a real drag on it to keep the rpms down). But I can

fill up a cap and dump it at 14v every half second to charge a third

battery with no noticeable drag on the rotor. Another day I will show

that when I can get some more wire soldered, etc. The setup was

according to ….'s recommendation. I have N S N S arrangement of

magnets (three stacked at each pole). But it is an odd number so at 180

degrees you have the same polarity outward. So …. suggested moving

the window coil up on one side to make it as a regular window coil. I

think this is promising.

I only had a few things to work with as everything is being moved

around and who knows where it is now. I used two welding rods and some

half inch pipe for my commutator. This was to pulse the output positive

of the small bridge to the battery and front end of the SSG circuit

(which is two transistors, 4 wire #18, one as trigger, one not used,

and two as power). It connects once every rotation. When I tried with

a cap connected across the bridge it slowed down the setup and was

not as efficient. Removing the cap and the primary battery (without the

commutator pulsing only once every rotation, which is not shown in the

video) amazed me in that the neon bulbs flashed violently bright with

or without the charging battery connected. It would not sustain

rotation but there was a great deal of radiant energy appearing. The voltage

did not show on this meter to be enough to trigger the neons on. Notice

also that the neons have 4.7k ohm resistors in series so as to protect the

neons. I can show this another time if there is interest in this

amazing phenomena.

Before removing the cap I played around with an additional commutator

held by hand (so unable to show on the video today). What I was after

was according to the old 1984 book of John's. And it worked like

everything John has ever told me. I just replaced the DC motor with the

SSG circuit. And the excess magnets act as a flywheel, and the rotor is

both the motor, the flywheel, and the energizer all in one part. What I

was trying to do was disconnect the battery from the SSG on the

positive side and pulse the battery with pickup coil while disconnected

and then disconnect the pickup/bridge connection on the positive leg

and reconnect the battery to the front end of the SSG. I showed a very

simple one battery setup like this 2 years ago on the monopole list

called increased volts. There I had filled up a cap with the trifilar

inductance setup and disconnected the positive leg to pulse the cap

across the battery. This I did for 8 hours and filmed an increased

volts slightly every 10 minutes. Here you see a better setup because it

is two batteries. See, we said two batteries is the best. Actually this

will be a three battery setup with all three batteries charging! See,

better yet with three batteries.

So I had done this second disconnect setup by hand but it was difficult

to hold in the right place. It definitely worked, but what was needed

was some proper supporting where adjustments could be perfected.

For some reason or other I removed the cap at that point and the wheel

really picked up pace. It started going too fast for my hands to hold

the two wire clips as a commutator. These were previously connected as follows.

They were held together until the wood came around and knocked the one

clip away long enough to allow the other commutator to engage and pulse

the battery. So while the two clips were together the SSG was powered.

While disconnected it was not powered and the battery was pulsed. The

whole timing could be changed and improved but it worked good enough to

do what I want. I could see in all this where John said in the book,

which I just read last night again, that your only problem once the

timing is right is what to do with the excess energy!

So I removed the cap and the machine took off and so I just connected

those clips together and it still worked. But it only slowled down when

connected with the cap without pulsing obviously. And with the pulsing

WITH THE CAP connected directly, the battery did not charge as good (or

at all) and the setup ran slower. So this was interesting to me along

the same lines with the great flashing of the neons.

The primary battery does not start charging (starting at 12.92v here)

until the setup gets up to speed and the pickup coil can gather enough

charge. But you can see the volts and my commentary on the video. You

can also see that I have the other battery charging up in the 14/15v

range. This is a very powerful charger and has very little imput. And

as set up has no external imput and three charging outputs. Yet I

cannot remove the little front end battery, or use a cap to sustain it

(although I haven't even tried the cap runner). Who cares about having

a cap fill itself when you can have a battery charge itself and two


The videos are here:

Bedini SSG Self-runner part 1 on google

Bedini SSG Self-runner part 2 on google

Bedini SSG Self-runner High Voltage Low Voltage Compare part 1 on google

Bedini SSG Self-runner High Voltage Low Voltage Compare part 2 on google

Bedini SSG Self-runner High Voltage Low Voltage Compare part 3 on google

Let me know some feedback, at least that it works. I did this for you

guys as I already proved this to myself 2 years ago (and of course no

one bothered to try what I suggested back then).

Low quality due to size. I couldn't even post it as one file on this

quality as I only have 10mb limits.

I'll try and get a still picture and schematic later.


Ok, just finished posting 2 pictures and the schematic. Also posted

the old schematic I did two years ago in the new folder in Photos


Rick Friedrich

The increased volts schematic is not what I was talking about when I

said I did this before 2 years ago. I did several things along these

lines which I shared with a few guys who never did anything with it.

Let me say here, that while this may be fascinating to you, as perhaps

you have never seen such a thing, it is not my ideal setup. I don't

have an ideal setup created, but this is how it would go along

similar lines. I would have two separate wheels attached like the old

prototype 2 in the old book, and maybe some flywheel added. One wheel

would be the strongest SSG with cole switching with hall sensor. Then

I would have the other wheel with either very strong neo magnets or

probably rather big magnets pressed together for the scalar poles. If

neo magnets then it would be a large window energizer, or if scalar

magnet poles then it would be coils like the old book. The SSG rotor

would have its own pickup coil as shown above to power itself and the

output would drive one load and the other rotor drive another.

What is the COP of this? It is infinite as there is no input and the

output never stops. All you have to do is swap out batteries.

There is no magic numbers here folks. I could have done this 1000

ways using so many different combinations. Don't ask for any detials

like length of coils or resistances, etc., as they are all somewhat

arbitrary. You learn to do this when you learn each setup. You learn

to build a good monopole first step. Then you go on. Then you combine

it all into an orchestra where all is harmony. The tricky part of

this is the timing as it says in the book. You have to see what the

battery likes best. Forget about cap-self-runners. Too long

disconnecting from the motor the rotation will stop. Too short a

pulse and the battery will not charge.

Watch the contacts that they don't burn up. If you note my comments

about the neons on very bright, this indicates a lot of radiant and

thus there is a great potential for burnout if you use semiconductors

to do the switching. Presently I feel the need to use 5000A

conductors to do such switch and remain undamaged, even on relatively

small setups. This was running off 4AH batteries people. That is a

lot of mass rotation probably over 30 pounds. You can see in the

picture I took later on that the standing voltage is 13.08.


Thanks ….,

I have to explore more of the neon bulbs coming on so powerfully as

mentioned. I'll try and get some video of that as what I showed only

had the neons slightly coming on because the pickup coil was being

pulsed. When it was on constantly without battery hooked up it was

much brighter, with or without the charging battery. I need to see

how well this charges the battery or what I can do with it. I can't

run the wheel with this without the primary battery, but I could

always separate it to another circuit if it was advantageous. Again,

the neons were as bright or brighter than if I disconnected from the

charging battery (on the basic SSG setup). If the primary battery is disconnected on the

positive leg then why would the neon bulbs flash at all? I guess the

trigger wire is hooked to the negative, and the rotation triggers the

transistor or something. Maybe it is nothing, but something to



That would take several load tests to verify. And that also depends on

the condition of the batteries as to how well any receive a charge. All

of these systems are not separate from the batteries used as an

essential part of the setup. So there is no absolute values, only

approximations. Also the monopoles run better at night if you have


So all I know presently is that the primary charges at a reasonble

speed, the SSG output is very good, and the Window generator coil puts

out a small output. If I get enough zeal I could add more coils around

that frame to get more out of that section. I could run separate

outputs or put them in series. I have about 400 winds of #26.5 and

would like to put another 800 of the same.


Two years ago or more I spent night and day tracking such things.

This is not new as it once was, nore is it that hard. I no longer

feel the desperation that most do to prove a self-runner or even show

OU to myself. I have mand over 60 different setups of various kinds

over the last 2.5 years. And I think what I have just shown shows how

easy it is for you all to do it with what you have long been shown.

My BM3 list shows you what it takes to do a SSG. With that you have

free mechanical. Convert that to electrical and you are easily over

the top. The 23 year old book shows you how. I just showed a very

poor quality little updated version with the SSG and window.

The way I show it and all things is to demystify it for everyone. It

is not about finding every exact detail of Mike's setup to get the

magic pill. It is about learning concepts and putting everything

together with many variables. It is about adapting with the parts you

have to do the same sort of thing. It will do little good if everyone

has to have the exact parts and sizes--very burdensome. True, there

is a sense were you get a feel for what you are doing, and there is

the learning process of what is the right kind of timing, and some

commonsense in building. But it really isn't that hard if you just

follow John's instructions. Unfortunately I think the biggest problem

is .... Well, John, you know as we have talked about it many times.

Anyway, while I don't mind focusing on this setup, I am not at all

interested in hashing out the particulars as in Mike's motor. That is

not the answer. The answer is found in the book. Even if you found

the book an easy read. Read it over carefully. Note every detail.

Replace the DC motor with the SSG and consider what I shared about

the timing for a SSG. Also remember the importance of flywheel. This

takes the focus off of one setup and makes it easy for everyone to

have their own very easy. I don't even have a proper commutator so I

worked with ridiculous materials and it still worked. I didn't have

much time and it still worked. I had to do it because I promised I

would show something and because I was fed up with people striving so

hard at figuring something out that they could easy figure out if

only they had done what I have continously shared, and better yet,

what John wrote 23 years ago. John, I guess it takes video to get

people following instructions. Just look what your little window cap

video did even though you instructions have been on the net since

1996. A picture is worth a thousand words, and a video is 30 frames a

second! But a testimony with written description motivates no one I see.

I believe this next video will motivate a lot of people apparently if

this is the case. It is the 'as seen on tv' complex.

So remember, this is nothing new. This is 1984 setup. Just SSG

replaces the inefficient DC motor and thus gives you the additional

return. But that is not new either. It is right in Bearden's EFTV

book as we have discussed that picture for some time. Same is true of

the window motor. It gives you OU in mechanical if setup that way.

Use it in the same way then.

Hopefully this closes the book on all the mysticism about how to get

what everyone is looking for, and how these systems can relate to

each other, and how easy it is to build such, and how long we have

been shown this in plain view. There are no secrets undisclosed that

you are promised in a video that never shows you them. It is all in

plain view for the taking. Mine is very poorly constructed, I need

…. to make a much better one.

Not sure what else I can say on these lists but repetition. I look

forward to seeing you all succeed. I'll try and build the window

motor when I get some time with the neos that were generously sent to




You need to look at this self runner differently. It isn't intended to produce continuous net power. What it does is produce a very unique signal. That signal causes batteries to charge with the signal rather than with brute amperage. The batteries give you the net power. If it costs nothing to run, and you can charge as many batteries as you want, you can figure out the net power.

Yes, and another thought. I was only thinking about the batteries

presently used. If you have a different size battery as the primary

it may have a different charge rate (again depending on the condition


But …. is right about what John has been saying all along in so

many ways. You have to look at these machines in this way. The

batteries are a key part of the machine. There is no separating the

battery from it. For example, you can't run DC from the line and see

the DC returned back into the line through the transformer, etc. And

while you could get some kind of net output in place of the two

batteries with a transformer or bulb, that would reduce the output'

potential work. So it is all about the switching and time process

only using batteries. It is a matter of swapping in and out.


Rick replies to …. on 5/9/07:

No problem …., see below:

> Hi Rick,


> ….

I have worked with this rotor for about 2.5 years having usually two

stacks of magnets on it. I have had numerous configurations of

magnets and coils (sizes, you name it). I'm like John and try one

thing at a time before I put everything together and test a final

result. To be truly scientific you have to examine each factor by

itself to determine what it is doing what. I once had even more magnets

on this, also with the tripple layer of magnets, but all N out. Upon

John's advice as something to try I put them N S N S probably a year

ago now. So that setup has been like that for some time and I have

many experiments with it like that. I had three layers on it and then

removed them and recently put them back on as you can see two layers

of tape.

> ….

So yes, first I ran it without the coil at all and it ran very well

just as a SSG. The primary goes down right away because the SSG draws

some power to run. When I added the coil it put a good bit of drag on

the rotor, but it still wizzed away. This was not doing anything with

the wires. I wrote some of this in my posts the other day. If I just

connected the wires across a battery with one diode or a bridge, it

would put quite a big load on the rotor--but that is not what I want.

I mentioned that I put a cap across the bridge and either paralleled

with a battery (which is the same as no cap as above) or pulsed the

cap. Now pulsing the cap can be done at different times in the sense

of position of the magnets. This can be done into another battery

separate from the circuit, or into the front end as I did both in

different experiments. I said timing is everything. Not just how long

you pulse it, but when. When in relation to the primary battery and

what it is doing, and when in relation to the magnets passing by this

enerizer coil. Is a magnet sweeping by when you pulse it? Or is it

inbetween magnets when firing?

> ….

The wood peice on the rotor was meant to disconnect the SSG from the

primary battery (S1) on the positive leg in order to allow the other

crude switch to conduct a pulse from the coil to the battery very

sharply. I had held the two clips together that connect the primary

battery to the front end of the SSG (just the positive side) and when

the wood hit the one clip it separated the two clips from each other

long enough for the other switch to connect and disconnect. So no,

there were two separate switches.

I started doing this with a cap and then removed the cap as

mentioned. Then I just removed S1 as you see in the video I just have

the SSG running constantly for lack of hands to do this and film at

the same time. The SSG is not constant current and can be done this

way if the timing is right.

> ….

The top coil is charged by the passage of 16 N/S/N/S magnets. As

above mentioned, the timing of the firing in relation to the position

of the coil and in relation to commutator is important. The duration

of the pulse is also important in relation to putting a load on the

rotor. If you have a magnet passing the top coil while you are

pulsing the coil across a battery then you are putting a drag on the

rotor as seen if you left it constantly connected to a battery and

watched it charge up. Then you have the coil bucking the magnets. But

if you time it right and very short then the coil is just receiving

the magnet streams and not really bucking against the magnets to

create a significant drag. All the drag that exists is in the

energizing of the coil which is what it takes for the magnets to pass

that core piece. Again, the relationship of the coil position to the

magnets and the position of the switch when it is fired is also part

of the puzzle. That is why the book says the brushes have to be able

to be moved around.

> ….

Yes I have as mentioned. Again, this is not the first time I have

done this sort of thing even though this was just slapped together

recently to show people something. I have done this in several

different ways as I studied Bearden's EFTV and the old book. I have

done the switching with semiconductors mostly. I have used different

size coils on different setups. Different size caps. Different

timing. I have charged three or more batteries separately at a time

and noted the rate of charge in relation to the draw on the rotor,

also in relation to the output of the SSG. I have even worked with DC

motors and many other modifications. And I have learned that when

John stresses something (like the kind of timing), even if it is a

very short statement, he must be listened to carefully. You throw the

setup together and don't have the timing right and we will look at

you as a mechanic would who had a car brought in with the sparking

taking place on the exhaust stroke. Just a whole lot of loud gas!


As setup much more given swapping batteries in and out. But you can

see I have another wire left on the coil and could increase the power

of the SSG and thus the output charging and speed of the rotor and

thus the charge of the energizer coil and thus the recovery. The only

problem in scaling up is your contact points. You can also up the

voltage. So again, it depends on how the setup is run, what volts,

how much the resistor is set for on the trigger, and what condition

the batteries are. And the net is the amount of useful work done by

batteries swapped out over time. As this is just a crude slap-

together demonstration I have no interest in spending the next few

weeks seeing exactly what I can get out of it in this particular.

Again, my point was to show the basics so you folks can focus in and

do all the data logging. I just spent the last week night and day

with 5 hours sleep a night logging data and I'm not ready to do that

again soon for the sake of other work. I'm not going to make this

machine a Mike inspection. When someone else builds John's 1984 motor

or the like then you guys can focus in on that with all the data

logging in the world to see what it will produce. I just wanted to

show something that gives you all the ideas necessary to do it

yourself much better. I don't prefer a self-runner because of the

difficulty in monitoring the primary battery to prevent overcharging.

You would have to have some sort of regulator that monitors the

voltage and swaps in and out the batteries. Much easier to just

separate the processes in four different battery banks--at least for

me in my limited abilities and ignorance of computer programing, etc.

So maybe …. will get one of these going that everyone can spend the

next few month inspecting--I don't have the time for that anymore. Or

maybe Mike will come back for another round )


Like I said, I'm not skilled in circuit creation.

New idea? I'm thinking of a certain Tesla coil in every car. You

can't do this with the trifilar setup as there is no buildup of

negative energy there. But this is different.

Also consider what Bearden writes in EFTV about one leg being

connected to the Bedini circuit and the reduction of BEMF as well

assisting in the charging of the cap (in this case no cap).

In this setup I am switching across the positve leg. I have also

switched across the negative and done many other related experiments.



Maybe this is just my subconscience picking up things. I don't know.

But I have not had time to get into the latest discussion about the

Radus method of flux transfer and the motor with the older Bedini

patent. But I could understand what John was saying when he

introduced this the other week and previously.

However, all this is just from experimentation and seeing what the

charging rates are as well as the load on the rotor. You move the

switch around until you get what you want in the best position. Then

you stop the wheel and see where the switch is in relation to the

magnets, and where it was when it was not so good. However it is

explained you know from the results what works and what doesn't.

That's the way I have worked all along. While I am a philosopher I

have no math or physics background and am at a loss when it comes to

many terms and calculations in energy discussions.

Yes this is 'out of phase'. That is why using a circuit to time such

things will not work. It will be hit and miss, whereas once every

rotation is easy to work with. Therefore you need the bigger wheel to

build up enough. And also the magnets stronger to do the same. I

never built it yet, but an 8' rotor would have some real potential


You also want the coil to be only connected long enough to dump the

charge (so to speak) and not have the coil connected so as to become

a motor. But who knows how this coil affects the magnets around it

when it is pulsed across the battery. Maybe it is like a vacuum

sucking in the streams? I don't know.

I suppose we could look into what happens and what can be done with

that one wire that is switched. I have done some experimenting with

this sort of thing with and without the bridge recitifier and/or just

one diode on one wire. I tried everything I could think of with the

information given by John and Tom Bearden.

One of these days we'll go back to that black ball window energizer

and learn so more things.


Are you talking about magnets? Anyway, what I wrote over the last few

posts shows a method of throwing things easily out of equilibrium

continuously. The timing has to be fast enough to prevent the state

of equilibrium from continuing for too long or at all. The closed

loop portion of the timing should only be long enough to either build

the dipole or pulse from it to the point of equilibrium. But here the

building across the inductor is open looped for an entire rotation

with only one wire connected to the negative of the battery and the

SSG circuit. When it closes it overpotentializes the battery as can

be seen on the volt meter. And I don't recommend the meter being left

on there too long.

Look forward to your analysis.





I hate guessing and opinions. We need to be scientific here. The

video does not show you enough to make any calculations upon. The

output of the ssg is at least 1A, more like 2A. The window coil is a

good bit less than this. And the overcharge from the top coil is also

less. I still have some leftover torque on the wheel that I could add

another regular coil or a whole lot more window windings. When it is

all said and done I could fairly easily make this setup a 1kw

machine. The only problem to deal with is the arcing. I could get

some silver for the contacts and put a proper commutator on it that

does not put such a strain on the rotation. But I'm not going to the

trouble to do that with this wheel. I would want a wheel with proper

bearings and the shaft rotating and not use the old bike bearings. I

would want a wheel that freewheels for over 20 minutes and not just 5

or 10 minutes. Then with such a shaft I can do a lot more things like

make commutation easier. I would also make a proper frame not like

the one I have that could easily fall over. Further, I would instead

make a more ideal setup with two wheels on one shaft using one as a

SSG motor and the other as energizer with neos or scalar magnets. It

wouldn't be that hard to make a 10KW setup. But I'm not going there

with any self-runner. It is fine to do a little setup as a toy, but

it is too problematic to go up larger.


No. I already have. From everything I said it should be obvious. I'm

not in the business of spoon-feeding. Again, it is not about one model

but the principles shown.

Here is a word of advice. Don't build more than a toy size self-runner.

That should be obvious too. I'm not planning on that. It was enough to

show this little crude setup to 70 people. But I'm not stupid enough to

make a quality setup that is powerful and broadcast to the world. The

plans already have been sent out since 1984 anyway.

I also don't want to displace experimentation and creative thinking,

etc. There is no secret to this stuff as I shared. I gave the

schematic, showed three pictures, and one long video with all the

commentary needed, and now several emails.

I will repeat that the SSG gives you enough output and mechanical to do

whatever you need it to. John, when will people realize this? This was

the real intention of this latest setup. I don't care about self-

running as I don't think it is as efficient. I just wanted to show you

how much mechanical is produced compared to what it takes to run the

setup MINUS the charging. Peter's video goes into that a little and

makes a point. Compare the mechanical output with the electical input

minus the output and you are in OU. Just convert the mechanical to

electrical. The easiest way would be to put up a coil like I have and

power an inverter and power a DC supply as John said over a year ago to

me. There is more losses there but it should show you easy enough that

the mechanical output is more than the net input. I think most people

think it is only a little bit, but here they can see how wrong they

were. So again I ask, where has everyone been the last 23 years? And

especially the last 2 years when I have said this repeatedly. I suspect

people either just don't believe it or never tell anyone what they have

done. One or the other is the case. We'll see in the next month or so

whether this remains the case. How hard is it to throw up another coil

and do this??? I slapped this thing together in minutes and spent a few

hours doing many different experiments. Most of my time is in filming

and writing emails about it! You don't need the NSNS magnet arrangement



Och ….! you were right. One meter would not even read it. Had to pull

out the other meter. Can you believe it is 1300v AC before the

bridge and 1300vdc after. No wonder those neons are flashing so bright

and I felt such a jolt.

BTW, I added another coil of equal size and it was no problem for the

rotor. Didn't make much of a difference. So we can now add a forth

battery charging Charles.


Well, finally some interest in the 23 year old energizer.

I don't have the means to view the magnetic streams on this setup but

that would be desired. Because the N out facing magnets are

relatively close together (8 on this 17 or 17.5" diameter rotor), to

be able to place 8 more between them, placing S out facing magnets

between instead may give some sort of amplifying effect of the super

south pole of the monopole arrangement. I don't know and have not

discussed this with John or anyone. Just a thought.

While I'm here, the wheel has no filing into the plastic. It is just

glued with a lot of crazy glue (lots from many different times of

changing it around). We are not dealing with high rpms (probably not

more than 600 at this setting) so I don't even have the outer magnets

glued on.

It has been too long since I did the same sort of thing with the

monopole to do an exact comparision (which I know was not at the same

settings). So I can't tell you if this arrangement is better than the

all norths out. I would not pull any magnets off first.

…., I just wanted to see your reaction. Actually it is 2k volts.

1300 was just one of the numbers. About 2k is the top. Well the meter

stops at 2k. I see 1900+ and then it blanks out, so it is a bit more

I suppose than 2k.

Sorry, but it only happens when connected to the SSG. John and

Bearden are right again. I think this is similar to the one wire

phenomena we were looking at when I was at the shop. So what is this?

Just as Bearden wrote in a slightly different context. Not only does

this help eliminate the BEMF, but it assists in charging the coil

very rapidly. My pages have long fallen out of the book at that point

…., maybe I need another book now ) I have read that section

over and over again. It is one puzzle for me to put together.

Remember the old prototype 2 had the same negative tied while the

positive was pulsed. So what is happening? This is open loop. You can

see the positive off the bridge is going to the commutator contact

which only fires once every 16 magnet passes or one rotation. So this

coil is like a suction pump maybe pulling up the flow in real open

loop. Then it fires at 23 degrees ATDC guys....

This explains why when I have used these coils and spun wheels very

fast and filled up caps that I have not seen the same results as when

connected to a true OU setup. I only got 100v or a bit more then.

This was when I first built them (which I had the number of turns and

wire size then, I reported it somewhere on the lists and in my

notes), and I thought it was a lot of work to wind that for so little


I have also run these two coils in series and parallel way back. That

was some interesting results too... Look, I just tried whatever came

to mind. Can't say that I really have discovered anything new. Every

time I find something interesting seems I learn John has been there

30 years ago. I just try and logically implement what I have read and

heard from John and Bearden. I told you guys over the last few years

that I have seen many very interesting things. But when people were

just complaining and disbelieving I decided to only share things with

a few people who didn't try them either. And when no one replicated

the original or what I basically just rebuilt and had explained

before, I sort of gave up. If you guys can do this and see something

interesting then please pay very close attention to what John has

said from the very beginning. He may not be an English scholar but I

have taken everything he has said seriously and always found it just

as he says. Have not been able to try everything, but many things


The spark was too hard to film, and was only half the size in the

picture. It is larger than the ignition spark on the average plug,

and that uses 30k. I suppose I could measure it at some point.

I suppose I could add 5 more like coils …. And a few more SSG

coils too. Easy enough to make it 24v and multiply the circuit. Done

all that before....

Now connect the bridge to a battery directly and the rotor really


Well hopefully Tesla is up there. I don't know. But yes someone is


I don't have the specs present on me of the two energizer coils. It

doesn't matter at all. They are both much different. One is maybe #21

and the other maybe #23 wire, filling the spool, with the same R60



Thanks ….,

You can see on several of John's setups, as you will see in the new

DVD, that there is such timing on smaller setups. You have to have a

pulley system which is exactly proportionate in sizing so that the

firing takes place exactly the same time/place on both wheels. When I

first visited John he said all the math I need to know, which was a

relief, was geometry. This has proven correct. We just have to

understand the magnetic streams and work with them properly. That is

why I wrote on the BM3 the other day …. that that 10 pound rotor

…. made was not the correct geometry...

This is no perpetual self-runner as it would require manual labor to

swap in and out the batteries and/or some kind of monitoring or

timing. Further, the rods will easily wear and pit, etc. But if you

are talking about the idea that is different. I didn't make a keeper

on purpose. You boys can do that and have the responsibility I don't

care to have. I may play with HV as a toy but I don't play with fire

if you know what I mean... Don't let your curiocity kill the cat



Ok, I'll tell you. It was a 5 millimeter gap and 5 mil arcing.

So what does that tell you about actual voltage? When I took the

picture from the bottom angle of the arc you could not see the length

right. I should have taken it from the top as you see in the one new

picture. The output rod disconnects from the buss when the input is

just over half a centemeter. So the arcing is on the input buss, and

the one rod is longer than the other. You can see the three different

positions of the wheel from these 9 pictures as indicated by the names

of the photos. The contact begins as I said around 23degrees After TDC

when the SSG fires, and completes at the half way point between the two

magnets in reference to both coils. So now there is nothing left to tell

you. Spoon fed the whole way. Rick


While that may be something it is mostly that it is being hooked to

the SSG, as this can be done with semiconductors too.

Yes, I have seen on many setups the spikes go over my 500v limit on

my scopes. They are very faint at the top.

Two more details I didn't mention yet. The HV does not occur until I

get up to speed and pretty much suddenly comes on. The voltage on the

coil is very low until probably half the speed when it kicks in.

Secondly, when I was taking pictures of the arcing I noticed that the

arcing was not constant per contact. It was 3 to 5 times in a row and

then a pause, and this also corresponds to the voltage levels.

Probably need to get out my oscope and see what is happening on the

SSG side, but I already blew two of my scopes and don't want to blow

the last one with these high voltages.

Thirdly, there is no gap on the commutator. Both rods hit the buss

fairly hard. Looking from a distance it just looked like a scattering

spark from making a hard contact, but up closer you can see that

after contact the sparking on the one rod just continues for a moment

and gives some length to the arc.

I'll show a picture of the exact location of the commutator in

reference to the magnets on both coils. Both SSG coil and energizer

coil are exactly 180 degrees apart. The rods begin touching when the

magnet is just past the energizer core which is when the SSG is

firing, and then there is a little distance between that point and

when the rods go off the bus and when the arcing stops. I wrote 23

degrees because that is the number John uses for the SSG self-timing

and it is about the same location.

As far as I can tell the two rods are exactly positioned to hit the

bus in the same way. Both disconnect at the same time, but only one

sparks. Have to look more carefully at that.



I must be misunderstanding, points one and two seem to be opposite to

three. The coil does NOT build up this high voltage when disconnected

to the negative of the SSG. It is only disconnected on the positive

side. It will build up voltage while disconnected but fairly small.

There is a load on the rotor by adding any coil, but it is

insignificant compared to when you run it directly to a battery in a

closed loop. You can all see what I am talking about by disconnecting

your primary battery and giving your wheel a spin (don't disconnect

the charging battery or you may need to replace your transistor

possibly). The speed of the rotor is determined by the core material.

It is not much drag with the R60 rods. So the only additional drag

any coils produce is when you are creating an electro magnet with a

coil and pulsing against the rotation obviously. But here I am

pulsing the battery and SSG with one power pulse per rotation (as

John recently said in a similar respect) right at the same time the

SSG is firing and also pushing the rotor in the same direction. Did

John say timing is everything???

This is the old plastic wheel I have shown many times with different

magnet arrangements. The plastic has become a negative resistor you

know ) I do have the xcelplus in the bike bearings so it is going to

spin better than any other setup with equal bearings and any other

lube you try. But it does not spin as good as John's recent wheel as

these are old load bearings with still a little dirt and grease mixed

in I never got out.

Now I have done the experiments you ask about already. But I'm not

prepared to go into details about scaling up any of this. I'm not

going to be another Mike, and especailly another Watson. The

world already has the books and soon the DVD. As said, it is all

explained in EFTV in conjunction with the old book and new patent in

the new book. I just needed to be read carefully and taken seriously.

It is very clear from all this and many other experiments that this

is just what John and Tom have said, that this is a triggering

phenomena where whatever you call it rushes in suddenly to fill a

void so to speak. All things being equal you just add the right

timing trigger and everything is different. We have to distinguish

between what triggers, when it is triggered and what results from the

triggering in where. Never confuse these several and other things

with each other or we get back into the old conventional way of

confusing things. The energy available is unlimited.

Now you guys can explore these things. But if you are smart and can

trust me, it is better to have a two battery system rather than a

self-runner. You are only dealing with more losses and personal

trouble. But who can stop the gold-rush fever?



Just joking about the plasic.

Yes, ground always connected.

Extra battery or primary battery pulsed by the coil. If you do

another battery then you need to share the ground as well.

I haven't checked the scope recently and don't remember if the SSG

fires every other magnet on NSNS. Yes otherwise, 8 or 16 pulses of

the SSG per rotation, 1 energizer coil pulse per rotation.

Well no problem with the questions. That is only expected. I just was

referring to going into scaling up any of these systems. I'm not

going there for several reasons.

Well so much for the window energizer focus on this list. That's

alright. Maybe now I can finish up with this distracting

controversial toy. This thinking about the window coil on this setup

just brought to mind my last Bedini mixture that I hinted about a

little while back. What I did there was different but a similar idea.

I'm not going into what I did, but just to say there are many very

interesting things you can do with these setups. It is like some

instruments that people once only played classical on, and now make

many strange noises.


Yea, I forgot I recently got a 10X probe for my oscopes. But I just

don't want to take a chance on blowing another scope for this. I'll

let you guys report from your setups what you see. I see that a 5

mill arc can be about 5k to 8k volts.

I don't know that a radio can detect RE. An AM radio can help in

tuning the SSG as some have claimed. I think I tried that a few



Sorry ....,


Again, I will totally defeat my purposes on these lists if I encourage

exact copies. My goal is for you guys to take the principles and make

slightly different setups do the same sort of thing.

Many of you guys have window motors running. Just do the same thing and

play around with the timing. You can run the Window motor with an SSG

circuit and add a coil. Believe me, it really is not that hard. Just

make your timing adjustable as the book says.



Yes I have been busy here. The answer is understanding the process,

Rick has shown it just needs to be much bigger.

The process does not take a rocket scientist to make work as it is just

simplicity. One pulse on, one pulse return, while the motor is off.

Timing is the key to recharging with a one battery system. ….


Just uploaded to my website three clips of a second part of the Self-

runner setup:

Bedini SSG Self-runner High Voltage Low Voltage Compare part 1 on google

Bedini SSG Self-runner High Voltage Low Voltage Compare part 2 on google

Bedini SSG Self-runner High Voltage Low Voltage Compare part 3 on google

Please verify they work. Of course comments are appreciated as I'm

just doing this for you folks.

The video explains what I was after. I wanted to show what ... was

asking. It was hard to hold the camera but you should be able to see

this along with the neon bulbs coming on constantly. I didn't focus

in on them as that was not my object (I forgot till later in the

video), but you can see them while I am explaining the other matter.

What I was after is in showing what the coil puts out without being

hooked up to anything but the bridge. Like I said, I only saw about

40v at top speed of what the SSG is presently set for in mechanical

rotation according to what the trigger resistance is set to. Then to

compare that to when JUST THE NEGATIVE is connected to the primary

side of the SSG circuit while running.

Note several distinctions here people as mentioned before:

1. It does not matter if the primary and/or secondary batteries are

hooked up for this higher voltage to appear (and according to speed

as it kicks in and builds up according to speed).

2. It doesn't really matter if I pulse it or leave it connected

bypassing the commutator when primary battery is removed, you will

still see the high voltage across the AC or DC of the bridge. The

only difference is that when pulsing you will only see the high

voltage across the SSG circuit when pulsed, as seen in the neon bulbs.

3. Again, with both batteries disconnected the neon bulbs will flash

very bright even with 4700 ohms resistors in series with them, or

with the charging battery connected. Pulsing it this way will only

have the neons flash when the pulse occurs.

4. The wheel will not continue to rotate if primary battery is

removed, so this can only be shown for a short time to make the point

until the wheel stops.

5. While trying to connect the output of the bridge across the

primary side and battery of the SSG without pulsing it will slow down

the wheel and stop it in a real hurry. This also shows you what? You

cannot leave the loop closed or you will kill everything special as

John has always said.

You can clearly see that something fundamentally different is

happening when connected to the negative of the SSG. The other way,

all other things the same, only gives you the conventional AC and DC

output. Again, what is interesting is that it is something that

bypasses the diode in the bridge rectifier in both ways. For the

negative of the SSG circuit is hooked to the DC end of the bridge and

yet the AC side on the other side of the diodes receives the 1000

fold amplification. Additionally, the brigde is I believe only 1000v

rated. The meter shows the increasing volts as it builds. You see it

go up not instantly, but suddenly it starts to really rise. You see

first higher double digits, then in the hundreds, then in the

thousands, then the meter blanks out overvoltage after you see 1900s

first. It goes up and down according to the pulses, but it clearly

builds according to speed. Yet then you remove simply the negative to

the SSG and the meter shows plan and simple lower double digit

figures. No problem with the meter here although now it is kind of

jumpy about 0.03 volts up and down. Anyway, this is verified by the

neons lighting up at the times they do with the charging battery on

or off with the primary battery too. The neons do not come on if the

primary battery is connected as it is soaking it all up.

Whoever has the programs can draw up the schematic better for me now

that I have taken several days to give this all to you in so much

detail. I would hope for some help here. The SSG part is just two

transistor circuits as you see on the front page of the monopole3

list but without the pot and with the resistors at 47ohm 2W sharing

then one 100 ohm 2W resistor that goes to the common trigger winding.

4th winding is not used, first two go to each collector separately.

Primary negative is shared. Primary postive is the same. Bases and

collectors are not tied, but the resistors are. Neons as on the other

setup. The third transistor shown in the video and pictures is not

used and was blown some time ago on another setup.


Thanks …. or John if you do it tonight,

Just don't include the wood piece and that commutator as it is not

part of what I showed. You can list all the parts as they are the

usual. MJ21194 transistors, 5408 diodes, Ne2 bulbs, 4x 100 feet of

#18 wire. R60 rods for cores. Filled spool of #21 wire for top coil.

17" plastic wheel with carboard on both sides to reduce air flow and

mount buss.


Thanks ….,

You forgot, that you cannot use neos with the core rods in the SSG

circuit. You can use that coil with rods on the window setup as an

addition but not to drive the SSG with the same kind of coil. Thus I

said the real setup is to make two wheels attached to the same shaft

and one be like this setup and other with scalar pole magnets

around a window and/or the original energizer arrangement. Then you

have the old book but improved (motor, energizer) and all you need is

BIG flywheel that could be constructed into one of the wheels.

Anyway, the neos do not make for good switching with the SSG when an

iron core is used, but great for the window motor. We have to

differenetiate or the newbies get confused and won't get rotation

with the basic SSG.


Forum - created Feb. 26, 2005.


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