Directory:Bedini SG:Coaching:Dec 21 '04

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John's Coaching

'John Bedini's Input Regarding How to Optimize His Directory:Bedini SG'

Summary : John gives several tips on how to optimize the Bedini SG, from how to tune in the base resistor, to wire gauge modifications. He would like to see us get to the point that we can run a 500 W inverter.

Phone Conversation Report

Dec. 22, 2004

[I sent this draft to John for his review before posting it. He said I got it right.]

I had another long chat with John on the phone last night. He was able to address a lot of my questions. Here are some highlights.

Regarding my replication, he said at present the input batteries are drawing maybe 0.6 watts, which is so low it wouldn't even run an LED, so the fact that it is running a wheel and charging batteries on the back end should be an indication that there is something other than just a transfer of energy from one battery to another.

Here is how you find the proper run speed.

# calculate the C-20 rate for your input battery. (Cold Cranking Amps / 20 = Ah of the battery Ah / 20 gives you "C-20" rate)

# as an arbitrary starting point, put a 680 ohm resistor in the base of the circuit (defined: "base resistor"), measure the input current.

# adjust the resistance from there until the input current matches the C-20 rate or slightly less.

Once you have determined that general region, you can fine-tune from there to find the sweet spot within that region (keeping the input current lower than the C-20 rate).

Current meters can profoundly effect the circuit. Get a 1-ohm resistor from Radio Shack with digital readout, to measure current in the least intrusive way (for low cost).

For output current, amp meters are almost entirely useless for determining what is going on there. Something John uses is to bring a compass (galvanometer) over the output positive wire (with that wire in an East-West orientation). The extent of deflection from North is proportional to the flow of magnetic current in the wire. Also, you can use the rate of charge of the output batteries as a gauge of where the most efficient resistance setting is.

Bear in mind that some potentiometer tend to bounce all over the place, so as you hone in, you might hard wire the resistors and just leave one or two 25 ohm potentiometers to fine tune. They are far more stable than the 5k or 10k pots.

The wheel rotation speed will naturally gravitate to the most resonant spot where the best ratio of input to output current is found for a particular resistance. At some base resistances you will see several resonant shifts as the wheel accelerates after being given a push. You may see it accelerate to one peak, then slow down, then accelerate to another, then slow down, and finally accelerate to a third, fastest peak where it equilibrates.

If you notice the rotation speed fluctuating after it has achieved a nominal resonant speed, it is probably because there is not a strong point of resonance for that particular base resistance, so that is not necessarily a good spot for the best performance.

Rather than have one diode coming from the collector of the transistor and then another diode going to each battery, just have one diode per battery coming straight from the collector.

Try and balance the length of wires going to each of the batteries.

Use 12 gauge wire to connect the batteries.

Try and balance the length of wire going from the negative of the charging batteries to the positive of the input battery, branching right at the positive terminal, rather than bridging the negative terminals one after another, then going to the positive terminal. This particular modification doesn't make sense electrically (that it would make any difference), but we are not talking about regular electricity. This particular modification is not a huge factor, but could possibly result in some improvement.

We've specified 20 & 23 awg magnet wire, but larger gauge will produce lower impedance, which will improve the charging effect. (20 is fine for now, for the stage of learning we are at, but eventually we will progress to running 500 Watt inverters.)

I will significantly improve my system by doing more winds than what I now have on my coil (~425 turns). I have the wire, I just need to do it. John predicts that my rotation will go from 300rpm max that I'm seeing now, up to ~500 rpm once I make this one change.

You don't want to get your magnets closer than 1.5 width apart from each other, but the more magnets the better.

As has been mentioned, to help contain your magnets from flying off your rotor, boxing tape with fibers can be woven around the wheel over the magnets perhaps 2-4 turns around the circumference of the wheel.

Regarding my recent attempt to recharge a non-rechargeable Alkaline battery, he said that "you can't put the Zink back on. however, NiCd and rechargeable alakalines work just fine. Regarding Lithium Ion batteries, he said that you have to be careful because they usual contain a circuit breaker that renders the battery useless if a certain charge is put across it, to keep it from exploding.

Regarding the result I reported yesterday of the battery capacity increasing while just sitting there, disconnected from anything, John said that he and Peter have observed batteries continue charging 13 - 20 hours after being disconnected from the circuit.

If you want your motor to produce torque (which the Bedini circuits are not good for, as they are designed for charging batteries, not for being a prime mover), you can employ the hall effect or opto switching, but that this draws much more current. The most efficiency you can hope for is 29%.

One of the ways you can tell that there is an unusual charging effect taking place is to add a neon bulb in series with your battery, between the positive wire coming from the circuit and the battery. This shows that there is at least 60-70 volts above your battery coming into the battery.

He said the motor "runs on a hidden scalar" as a function of the timing of when the magnet is repulsed as it passes beyond the core, and the charge of the core lingering.

"Radiant Energy" behaves more like a gas.

"There is a neutral spin current," he said, whatever that means.

"Perhaps the best word for what you have built (the Bedini SG) is magnestatic energizer -- a self running magneto, with magnets all of the same pole."

Generators require magnets of alternating N-S poles.

What John has done is combine a motor and a generator.

As soon as the magnet leaves the pole of the electromagnet created in the core, there is a discharge in the coil, the transistor fires, triggering a pulse that then propels the motor.

He said something about a picture he drew based on my replication in which he shows what he calls "quarternions," "hidden field," "a scalar field," "imaginary magnetics."

It think I need more background before understanding what it was he was saying. Ironically, he said that the best article he's ever read on monopoles was written by myself. I assured him that I was merely reporting what James Fauble had relayed to me.

He has been quietly following the work James Fauble is doing with the Ion Source Beam Projector, and believes James is onto something there. I forwarded them an image John then sent me by email which explains how to build the monopole magnet they've been trying to source by using two ring magnets, one inside the other.

John has been grateful for the documentation that is taking place as a result of this Bedini SG project.

He says, "English is my second language. Math is my first."

While he can read as well as the next person, he has a difficult time composing his thoughts into words, and remembering the proper rules of word construction. He calls it "dyslexia" for lack of a better word. He doesn't want his work to go to the grave with him, so he is glad we are doing what we are doing.

Sterling D. Allan

Executive Director, PES Network Inc

See also

Directory:Bedini SG:Coaching

PowerPedia:John Bedini

Directory:Peter Lindemann

Directory:Bedini SG:Theory

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PowerPedia:Radiant Energy

- Directory:Bedini SG

- Directory

- Main Page

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